Copenhagen: What to Prioritise in a City That Closed Noma and Remained the World’s Best Food City

Copenhagen consistently ranks among the world’s most liveable cities, and spending a few days there makes it obvious why. It’s walkable, the cycling infrastructure is genuinely excellent (not just “there”), food quality is high across all price ranges, and the public spaces are well-maintained without feeling like a museum. It is also genuinely expensive, even by Scandinavian standards.

Getting Around

Skip the tourist hop-on bus. The city is flat and compact. Rent a bike from any of the dozens of hire stations, or use the Donkey Republic app which has docks throughout the city. A day’s rental runs around DKK 100-150. The metro is excellent for reaching Vesterbro, Frederiksberg, and the airport, but the city centre is faster on two wheels.

The Copenhagen City Card (from DKK 600 for 24 hours) gives free entry to over 80 attractions and unlimited public transport. Useful if you plan to do multiple museums; skip it if you’re mostly walking and eating.

What to Actually See

Nyhavn is unavoidable and genuinely photogenic. The colourful 17th-century merchant houses along the canal look exactly like the postcards. It’s also massively crowded from about 11am onward. Go at 8am on a weekday morning and it’s a different, far better place.

Rosenborg Castle in Kongens Have (King’s Garden) has the Danish Crown Jewels in the basement treasury, including Christian IV’s coronation crown. The castle itself shows 300 years of royal interiors. Expect to spend 90 minutes. Entry around DKK 130.

Freetown Christiania is a self-governing commune established in 1971 in an abandoned military base in Christianshavn. Parts of it are genuinely interesting: DIY architecture, community gardens, the famous Pusher Street (hash market, photography officially unwelcome). Other parts are frankly grim. It’s a complicated place with real residents who live there, not a theme park. Walk through respectfully.

Assistens Cemetery in Nørrebro is where Søren Kierkegaard and Hans Christian Andersen are buried. Locals use it as a park. It’s a pleasant place to spend an hour, particularly on a warm afternoon.

Eating on a Budget (and Not)

The food scene is dominated by the New Nordic legacy but the everyday eating is actually quite accessible.

Smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches) from a proper lunchroom is the quintessential Copenhagen midday meal. Aamann’s on Øster Farimagsgade is a good introduction: expect to pay DKK 80-120 per piece. You need two or three for lunch.

For something cheaper, the street food market at Reffen on Refshaleøen (15 minutes by bike from the centre) has around 40 vendors selling food from DKK 80-130 a dish, with outdoor seating along the water. It’s open summer months only.

Noma closed its restaurant in 2024 to pivot to other projects. Alchemist is now the benchmark-setter: 50-course immersive dining at around DKK 4,000-5,000 per person. It’s extraordinary and genuinely difficult to get a reservation. For more accessible fine dining, Kadeau in Frederiksberg works with seasonal Danish produce and is around DKK 1,200-1,500 per person.

Where to Stay

Hotel Nimb inside Tivoli Gardens is the splurge option. Axel Guldsmeden in Vesterbro is eco-certified, well-designed, and often good value from DKK 1,200 per night. For budget options, look at hostels in Nørrebro and Vesterbro, which have better character than anywhere near the main station.

Day Trips

Frederiksborg Castle in Hillerød (35 minutes by S-train) is arguably the best castle in Denmark: red brick, Baroque, sitting in a lake. The National History Museum inside is underrated. DKK 90 entry.