Vancouver
Vancouver, Canada
Vancouver has more sushi restaurants per capita than any North American city outside Japan. This has been true for decades and reflects the Japanese Canadian community’s history in the city from the late 19th century onward, including the internment during World War II, after which many returned to the Lower Mainland despite the dispossession they’d experienced. The best sushi in the city is found in the Richmond suburb and in the Japanese commercial area along Robson Street, not in tourist-facing downtown operations. This gap between the most visible food options and the actual best food is a pattern that repeats throughout Vancouver’s dining scene.
Vancouver sits between the Pacific Ocean and the Coast Mountains and takes full advantage of both. The setting is objectively impressive. The city is also expensive, hotel prices in summer are high, and dining out adds up fast.
Stanley Park
The park is 405 hectares of temperate rainforest on a peninsula jutting into Burrard Inlet. The Seawall circumnavigates it, 8.8km of waterfront path that bikes, runners, and pedestrians share. The totem poles at Brockton Point are the photograph most people take. The park is never fully quiet in summer but early mornings on weekdays give you the forest sections largely to yourself.
Rentals for bikes and rollerblades are available near the park’s Georgia Street entrance.
Granville Island
The island is a former industrial area under the Granville Bridge that was converted in the 1970s and now holds Vancouver’s best public market (Granville Island Public Market, open daily), studios, galleries, theatres, and breweries. The market is worth a morning for buying lunch, fresh bread, smoked salmon, cheese, produce. The False Creek ferry (small water taxi, around CAD $3.50-5) connects it to Yaletown and downtown.
Mountains
The Grouse Grind is a 2.9km hike up the face of Grouse Mountain with 850 metres of elevation gain. It’s steep, crowded in summer, and typically takes 1.5-3 hours depending on fitness. Cable car down only (around CAD $15). Cypress Mountain and Mount Seymour are the other two local peaks with ski areas in winter and hiking in summer. All three are 30-45 minutes from downtown by car.
Eating
Granville Island and Gastown are the best areas for food. Published options in Gastown: The Mackenzie Room (prix fixe, book ahead), Ask for Luigi (Italian pasta, casual, long waits), and Meat & Bread (exceptional porchetta sandwiches). Richmond, the suburb south of the city, has one of the best concentrations of Cantonese and dim sum restaurants in North America, Parker Place mall on No. 3 Road has multiple reliable options at significantly lower prices than downtown.
Getting Around
The SkyTrain (Metro) covers most of central Vancouver and connects to the airport. A Compass Card loads with credit and covers all transit including the SeaBus to North Vancouver. The airport is on the Canada Line, roughly 25 minutes to downtown, CAD $4.55 fare.
Practical Notes
Sales tax in British Columbia is 12% (PST + GST combined). Hotel taxes add further. Budget accommodation in downtown Vancouver starts around CAD $150/night in summer; expect more at standard hotels. The city is temperate year-round but genuinely wet from October through March. July and August are reliably dry and warm (20-25°C).