Serbia Walking Routes by Time Available
Serbian old towns are compact, so the useful question is how long you have. This page groups walks by time available, from a short riverside stroll to a full day with a train ride in the middle. Wear shoes that cope with cobbles, and carry some dinars (RSD, about 117 to the euro) for cafes and bakeries. The UK government warns that demonstrations can turn violent at short notice, so walk away from any you meet in city squares.
An hour or so
Zemun quay, Belgrade. Zemun was a Habsburg border town, and its baroque lanes sit above the Danube. Walk the riverside promenade on Kej Oslobođenja, then climb the cobbled streets to the Gardoš tower, which was built in 1896. It is a good first-day wander because it is flat, scenic and close to restaurants.
Sremski Karlovci. This small town can be seen on foot in an hour or two, with the Patriarchate and wine cellars close together. Cellar hours were not confirmed, so ring ahead if you want a tasting.
Niš, fortress to cafe lane. Start at Niš Fortress, cross the Nišava river and head into the centre. Kazandžijsko sokače, the old Tinkers’ Alley, has cafes and kafanas for a long coffee stop.
Two hours
Belgrade, Republic Square to Kalemegdan. The classic route is about 2 km. Begin at Republic Square beside the National Museum and the statue of Prince Mihailo, follow the pedestrian street Knez Mihailova, with its 19th century facades and street musicians, and finish in Kalemegdan Park at the Victor monument for sunset. The Church of Saint Sava is not on this line, because it stands on the Vračar plateau roughly 2.5 km to the south. Public transport is free, according to the Belgrade tourist organisation , so ride a bus or tram there afterwards. If you would rather have a guide, browse Belgrade walking tour listings .
Subotica. The City Hall, the restored synagogue and a street of Secession houses lie within one loop. The tourist board advertises a free architecture walk; visitsubotica.rs shows which days it runs.
Half a day
Old Belgrade by the river. From the fortress, climb to Kosančićev Venac, the oldest preserved quarter, with cobbled lanes and lime trees. Princess Ljubica’s Residence dates from 1831, and the cathedral of St Michael the Archangel holds the tombs of Vuk Karadžić and Dositej Obradović. The Question Mark kafana has served customers since 1823. Then drop to Dorćol, where the Bajrakli Mosque of about 1575 is the only historic mosque left in the city.
Novi Sad and Petrovaradin. Walk from the old town across the Danube to the fortress ramparts for river views. Operator-led walks appear on visitnovisad.rs , with quotes of about 1,400 RSD for a short Petrovaradin loop and 1,800 RSD for a citywide route. The Soko train from Belgrade is advertised at 34 to 36 minutes, though you should allow up to an hour; confirm times at srbijavoz.rs .
Stops that call for quiet
A few places on these routes are memorials. A sunken garden in Kosančićev Venac marks the site of the National Library of Serbia, destroyed in the bombing of 6 April 1941. In Niš, the Skull Tower, Ćele Kula, was built in 1809 from the skulls of 952 Serbs after the Battle of Čegar, and 58 remain. It costs 300 RSD (250 reduced) and is closed on Mondays. Bubanj Memorial Park in Niš commemorates prisoners from the Crveni Krst camp who were shot in 1942 to 1944; estimates of the dead vary, and thousands is the safest figure. Staro Sajmište on the Sava is a former Second World War camp site where no museum opening has been confirmed. Treat all four with a pause and a lowered voice. Hours for the Niš sites are at narodnimuzejnis.rs .
Read more: sightseeing in Serbia , solo activities in Serbia and the two day itinerary .