Jaipur
Jaipur: The Pink City and Why It Was Actually Painted Saffron
The colour that gives Jaipur its “Pink City” identity is not technically pink. It’s a saffron-terracotta, applied in 1876 when Maharaja Ram Singh II ordered the entire old city painted that colour to welcome the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII). The Maharaja chose the shade to symbolise hospitality – it happened to correspond to the Rajput colour for welcoming guests. A law still requires buildings in the walled old city to maintain this colour. What you’re looking at when you walk Johari Bazaar at golden hour is the result of a 150-year-old royal welcome that became permanent.
Jaipur, Rajasthan’s capital, was founded in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II – one of the few planned cities of its era, laid out on a grid following Vastu Shastra principles. It forms, with Delhi and Agra, the Golden Triangle at the heart of most first-timer India itineraries. Allow at least five to six days for the triangle; rushing it cheats you of all three cities.
A useful budget move: the Composite Tourist Ticket costs around INR 300 for Indian visitors and INR 1,000 for foreign tourists and covers entry to Amber Fort, Albert Hall Museum, Jantar Mantar, Hawa Mahal, and Nahargarh Fort. Compared to buying individually this saves around 40 percent.
Where to Visit
Amber (Amer) Fort: Founded in 1592 by Raja Man Singh I, 11km from the city on a ridge above Maota Lake. Arrive at 8am opening to beat the heat and the coach tours. Walk up on foot or take a jeep – skip the elephant rides on animal welfare grounds that are now well-established. The mirrored Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors) is genuinely extraordinary: hundreds of small convex mirrors set into the plaster ceiling so that a single candle flame produces the effect of the sky full of stars.
Hawa Mahal: The five-storey honeycomb facade with 953 jharokha windows, built in 1799 for royal ladies to observe street life unseen. Best photographed from the tea terraces across the street; the interior is more modest than you’d expect from the exterior.
Jantar Mantar: The 18th-century astronomical observatory built by Jai Singh II between 1728 and 1734. A UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Samrat Yantra – a 27-metre stone sundial accurate to within two seconds – is the most impressive single instrument and the easiest to understand. Get a guide; without explanation, you’re looking at stone ramps and angles.
City Palace: The former royal residence, now a museum of Mughal-Rajput architecture and Rajasthan’s finest textile and arms collections. The courtyard Peacock Gate is the most photographed element.
Nahargarh Fort at Sunset: The best free view of Jaipur, especially with the Padao rooftop cafe for a cold Kingfisher beer as the old city’s terracotta colour deepens in the light.
Where to Eat
LMB (Laxmi Mishthan Bhandar): In business since 1954 on Johari Bazaar, the best address for ghewar (a deep-fried syrup-soaked lattice pastry), pyaaz kachori (fried onion-filled pastry), and the full Rajasthani vegetarian thali.
Handi on M.I. Road: A long-standing institution for slow-cooked laal maas (mutton curry with Mathania chillis, genuinely hot), kebabs, and Mughlai gravies.
Suvarna Mahal at Rambagh Palace: The most theatrical dining room in Jaipur – chandeliers, silver service, live shehnai, royal-recipe thalis. The cost is high; the memory is lasting.
Tapri: Rooftop chai and north Indian plates in a relaxed setting, the right counterpoint to the formal dining options.
Where to Stay
Rambagh Palace (Taj): The former royal residence. Peacocks cross the lawns. The Polo Bar is an Indian institution.
Samode Haveli: A restored 18th-century haveli in the old city, all painted frescoes and mirror-work.
Hotel Pearl Palace: Friendly budget and mid-range option near Hathroi Fort with excellent rooftop dining.
Practical Notes
October to March is the right window. April through June exceeds 40 degrees Celsius and Amber Fort’s exposed courtyards become genuinely dangerous at midday. Hire a guide for the first morning in the old city – the bazaars and the haveli doors you’d otherwise walk past are the hidden Jaipur. Leave room in your luggage for block-printed cotton from Bapu Bazaar. You will buy more than you planned.